Great time climbing in Lincoln Woods yesterday (April 18, 2009). I came away OK but my left shoulder is pretty sore. I think I overdid it on the Wave Boulder.
Routes Completed
Best Kept Secret
1. Trouble Ahead – V1 *
Start squatting with hands matched on flake in crack. Move up and left to hrizontal shelf, then up and right to a hidden pocket at lip. Crux is manteling to topout.
2. Easy Crack, V0-
Start as for Trouble Ahead, but climb up and right, following crack to top of boulder. the boulder.
3. Immaculate Arete – V1 **
Start standing at the base of the arete. Pull on, reach high with your right hand, get your feet up and go for good hold at top. Finish on easy jugs. One of the coolest problems at it’s grade in the park.
4. Warmup – V0-
Start right of arete at base of small slab. Climb up and left on slab until rock becomes vertical, then reach for good holds at lip and mantel to topout.
5. Name-Unknown – V0+
Start same as for Warmup but climb up and right to steeper rock. Follow several large jugs to lip and easy mantel topout.
6. Name-Unknown – V1
Same as for #5, but stay right on steeper rock.
7. Name-Unknown – V2 *
Climb face just left of big 6″ crack.
Wave Boulder
1. The Wave – V2 ***
Start sitting on left side of face. Traverse up and right on slopey lip. After notch in lip, move low and climb into right leaning crack. Topout through second notch in lip.
2. Wave Sit Down – V1
Starting at base of crack climb up and left to first notch in lip. Mantel over lip and climb slab to top.
We went over to ship’s prow boulder and did a few there too and then checked out Try Again but didn’t do anything there…I packed it in because my shoulder was hurting a bit….