Good night climbing on Wednesday… I was really feeling disconnected from climbing since I hadn’t been for a week or so…I ended up getting there early and got a few belay’s from a friend I met at yoga.
Lead Climbs
5.7+
Real easy climb, nice warm-up
5.8
While the climb was easy I thought the third clip was a bit tough for an 5.8. I chose to climb above the clip and then make it and it was a committing move.
5.8+
First clip on this route was interesting. It is hanging over a roof left-facing gate. I fumbled with it a bit but should have just used a full hand clip to secure it. My friend warned me about the last clip but I found it to be pretty easy.
5.8 Running on Empty EPH
This is the new long wall route. I found it to be pretty fun and it did make me think at times. I will have to run up it a few more times to see where I am at with it.
5.9-
I messed up the sequence on the third clip, but made it past. There is an interesting stem to get to the last clip that would involve a fun fall.
5.10a/b
The new old black route…sigh…I really didn’t even want to do this route, but I tried it anyway. The first four or five clips are no problem, but then it goes to this roof problem that I don’t really understand how to do. I’ll tell you I was pretty scared trying to clip the second roof clip. I was able to finally get the clip and move past but it was very messy in the end I just let go and took the fall.
Top Rope
5.10a Really?
Cool route well set. I was tired…